Despite the name, there’s nothing very tropical or gardenia-like about Tiare. Instead, it’s a beautifully dry, green chypre done in the classical French manner – crisp, radiant white florals pinned against a darkly mossy background. Its bitter greenness will remind you of all manner of chypres from Diorella to Cristalle, but the lush, damp floralcy in the heart make it a more relaxed rendition. Think tennis players five minutes into a game – everything is still tightly pulled together and crisp, but a few strands of hair have come loose. It’s this hint of salty dishevelment that makes it so sexy.
The fragrance kicks off on a sharp bite of lime, opening up a vista onto a deep, lush floral heart. Tiare flower, here a particularly cool, only ever so slightly creamy iteration, is flanked by other fresh, silvery-clean florals such as freesia, lotus, and orris root. The drydown is replete with a full-bodied, satiny oakmoss every bit as dry and bitter as a long drink of ice-cold vermouth. Take note, fans of No. 19, Y, and Cristalle: Tiare is a new chypre that shows all other new chypres how to do it in this post-IFRA age.
Mandarin, orange flower, Sicilian lime, tiare, freesia, water lily, jasmine, orris, ylang, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss, musk
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